Ritualized aggression is part of 'pack' behavior (in this case pack means a group of animals). In reality it is a way for social animals to clear up conflict without weakening the family group. While I don't agree with pack theory or dominance theory, ritualized aggression is behavior seen in quite a few different types of animals that live in groups. Horses practice ritualized aggression, dogs, primates (including humans) and many other sociable animals. Ritualized aggression is a series of escalating threat displays that may or may not lead to physical contact although injury rarely results.
An example of ritualized aggression is a herd of horses which include a lead mare, a stallion and 5-10 mares. A bachelor stallion moving in to attempt theft or even a coup will be met by the herd stallion. They issue challenging vocalizations, square their bodies up and move towards each other with stiff, aggressive movements. When they are close to each other they will often shake their heads while pinning their ears back, kick, strike or try to nip each other. Very very rarely does this type of encounter lead to anything more than some scrapes and bruises (mostly from sliding on rocks) and a set of teeth marks.
Because of it's role in social heirarchy, I chose not to place it on the aggression list. Since ritualized aggression is not truly an issue for the health/wellbeing of humans interacting with the dog it doesn't actually effect us. In dog/dog aggression the best way to deal with it is to let the dogs sort themselves out. I don't mean that you should encourage the behavior, you most emphatically shouldn't, but you don't need to step in and correct your dog for non-harmful scuffles. If the situation begins to get out of hand and one or both dogs escalates into full-blown killing mode you and the other owner need to get involved. I'm sure many people reading this will take it in a way that I didn't mean it but I honestly feel that allowing dogs to be dogs is better for a healthy mindset.
I use two different methods when I am needed to halt or suspend a dog fight. One for when I'm alone and the other for when my kinda-boyfriend is around.
Method 1: This is the one I use when I am on foot, alone and the fight is either my dog and a stray (or a dog whose owner doesn't understand the leash law).
I tie my dog's leash to a post, bumper or other sturdy object. This keeps him from being able to follow the other dog when I get them split up. If only one dog is loose I have less to worry about. Grabbing the other dog by the loins (that squishy area right in front of the hip bones and behind the ribs) I yell !!OUT!! and pull back. My dog will release on the OUT command and the other dog will spin in an attempt to bite me. As the dog spins towards me I make a circle (think wheelbarrow cookies) to keep myself out of reach and the dog off balance. Once I am out of range of my own dog I begin watching for signs of the dog I'm holding to get tired or give up. Once the dog has stopped snapping at me or is snapping slower I shift my grip to tail and scruff so that I can push the dog over and get my phone. At this point I call the non-emergency number for the police or the number on the dog's collar.
Method 2: Same as above only my companion holds my dog.
I do NOT recommend you try either of these methods. I am willing to put myself at risk because I know I am capable of pulling the manuever off. It is much safer if you can break the fight up with a hose (cold shower) or a stick or some other ranged 'attack'. I am simply stating what I've found works best for me. You know your own dog and you also know your own abilities, find a way that works for you without you being hurt.
Showing posts with label aggression. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aggression. Show all posts
8/25/09
8/24/09
I believe my thoughts are more in order(ish)
I finally managed to get my hands on a copy of Jean Donaldson's "The Culture Clash" and I'm really impressed. Once I've gotten my notes finished I'll post some of what I got out of the book. You can find her here: http://www.jeandonaldson.com. Her site is well worth visiting and I can recommend her books as well. Most of "The Culture Clash" seems like it should be common sense but when the waters have been muddied by TV shows and yank'n'crank propaganda it can be hard to stick to your guns.
I'm consistently taking Quark out for walks, car rides and bike rides (he has to ride on my lap or in a back pack right now) to achieve proper socialization. He has gone to stores with me, hung out at parks, visited picnics and has not met a person he doesn't like yet. He's been playing with other dogs, cats and kids (supervised only) and at 10 weeks old he seems to be settling in very nicely. Hopefully we can nip any behavioral issues in the bud. We have started with Clicker Training and his speed at grasping the concepts is truly astounding.
Liwanu has been running alongside my bike for 45 minutes a day, every day for the past week. It does seem to have made quite a bit of difference in his attitude. We have also been practicing his basic obedience commands especially 'leave it' and 'sit/stay'. He has not been lunging or snapping nearly as much while we are walking and he has also been less grumpy during the day while he is crated. I'm currently re-writing his goals and our plan of 'attack' so that we can make the most of my newly gained knowledge.
I feel kind of bad about using him as a guinea pig but he seems to enjoy spending the extra time with me and since the whole 'assert dominance' phase (that was at the beginning of our trek) his behavior has not been negatively effected by my attempts at redirecting his negative behaviors.
I'm consistently taking Quark out for walks, car rides and bike rides (he has to ride on my lap or in a back pack right now) to achieve proper socialization. He has gone to stores with me, hung out at parks, visited picnics and has not met a person he doesn't like yet. He's been playing with other dogs, cats and kids (supervised only) and at 10 weeks old he seems to be settling in very nicely. Hopefully we can nip any behavioral issues in the bud. We have started with Clicker Training and his speed at grasping the concepts is truly astounding.
Liwanu has been running alongside my bike for 45 minutes a day, every day for the past week. It does seem to have made quite a bit of difference in his attitude. We have also been practicing his basic obedience commands especially 'leave it' and 'sit/stay'. He has not been lunging or snapping nearly as much while we are walking and he has also been less grumpy during the day while he is crated. I'm currently re-writing his goals and our plan of 'attack' so that we can make the most of my newly gained knowledge.
I feel kind of bad about using him as a guinea pig but he seems to enjoy spending the extra time with me and since the whole 'assert dominance' phase (that was at the beginning of our trek) his behavior has not been negatively effected by my attempts at redirecting his negative behaviors.
7/1/08
Aggression
I'm going to cover a basic summary of the different types of dog aggression. Keep in mind that there is a HUGE difference between dog/dog(animal) aggression and dog/human aggression.
1) Fear or nervous aggression. This is a common form of aggression for dogs and can be directed towards animals, people, objects and can even be triggered by scary places. Fear aggression is correctable with proper socialization and R+ training methods (You can read about Liwanu's battle with this on the blog 'Curbing the Violence')
2) Frustration aggression. Also known as fence-fighting or boundary aggression. Dogs who are kept in dog runs behind the house 24/7, are chained 24/7 or otherwise live a fairly isolated life (IE are not family pets, don't get to explore or meet other dogs/people) are prone to this type of aggression.
3) Sexual Aggression- This usually occurs between two intact males in regards to a female in heat. Females may show aggression towards other females during their season or even the male if they are not receptive to his behavior.
4) Territorial Aggression- The name speaks for itself. Many people mistakenly think that this type of aggression is appropriate because they have never seen how quickly it can get out of hand. Anything the dog regards as 'their property' is defended often with serious injury being done. Many dog attacks happen because of someone mistakenly entering the dog's perceived territory and not knowing how to react to the initial threat display. NILIF is a great method to help break the cycle of territorial aggression.
5) 'Dominance' aggression- While I do not support the dominance theory, dogs do establish a ranking order when meeting other dogs. When two dogs meet who are equal rank or where one is trying to 'buck up' there is likely to be aggressive posturing, intimidation tactics and potentially a dog fight.
6) Predatory aggression- This is fairly straight forward as well. Predatory aggression is the act of fulfilling their prey drive. It comes into play when people, animals or other objects appear to be running from the dog.
There are more, but I think I've covered the basics for now. It comes down to a very simple fact. Aggression is a serious issue and correcting it takes help from a behaviorist. Because of the complex body language and various cues (many of which can barely be seen by an unblinking human eye) the average dog owner is not capable of telling which type of aggression their dog has, which makes it very difficult for them to correct.
1) Fear or nervous aggression. This is a common form of aggression for dogs and can be directed towards animals, people, objects and can even be triggered by scary places. Fear aggression is correctable with proper socialization and R+ training methods (You can read about Liwanu's battle with this on the blog 'Curbing the Violence')
2) Frustration aggression. Also known as fence-fighting or boundary aggression. Dogs who are kept in dog runs behind the house 24/7, are chained 24/7 or otherwise live a fairly isolated life (IE are not family pets, don't get to explore or meet other dogs/people) are prone to this type of aggression.
3) Sexual Aggression- This usually occurs between two intact males in regards to a female in heat. Females may show aggression towards other females during their season or even the male if they are not receptive to his behavior.
4) Territorial Aggression- The name speaks for itself. Many people mistakenly think that this type of aggression is appropriate because they have never seen how quickly it can get out of hand. Anything the dog regards as 'their property' is defended often with serious injury being done. Many dog attacks happen because of someone mistakenly entering the dog's perceived territory and not knowing how to react to the initial threat display. NILIF is a great method to help break the cycle of territorial aggression.
5) 'Dominance' aggression- While I do not support the dominance theory, dogs do establish a ranking order when meeting other dogs. When two dogs meet who are equal rank or where one is trying to 'buck up' there is likely to be aggressive posturing, intimidation tactics and potentially a dog fight.
6) Predatory aggression- This is fairly straight forward as well. Predatory aggression is the act of fulfilling their prey drive. It comes into play when people, animals or other objects appear to be running from the dog.
There are more, but I think I've covered the basics for now. It comes down to a very simple fact. Aggression is a serious issue and correcting it takes help from a behaviorist. Because of the complex body language and various cues (many of which can barely be seen by an unblinking human eye) the average dog owner is not capable of telling which type of aggression their dog has, which makes it very difficult for them to correct.
3/31/08
Long Time:
Apparently my muse has been spending some sick leave lately. Every-time I sit down to write anything, I find myself drawing a complete blank. Liwanu has been doing awesome. His aggression has tapered off and I can walk him without the muzzle. Aello is still a royal pain in my rump so I guess it's all going to even out.
The issue of Liwanu's aggression leads me to a very serious matter. Guys (and Girls) it is NOT an intelligent idea to get a dog for 'protection' purposes. If you want to protect your house, storage or yard it is a much better idea to get an alarm system. Dogs who are not trained correctly are a huge liability risk and the intruder they are supposed to protect you against CAN and WILL sue you and many times they will win if your dog bites them (yes, even if they are in your bedroom with a gun to your head) and you lack the necessary notices. Many dogs who are gotten to serve as 'watch' dogs or 'protection' dogs end up dead, abandoned and tortured because they do not have the necessary drives to fill the role they are supposed to (according to the owner).
People, if you really need a dog for Personal or Home Protection, seek a trained dog from a professional. Make sure that you have the proper insurance, notices and be forewarned, there are insurance companies that discriminate not only by breed but by the dog's role in your life. NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ATTEMPT TO TRAIN YOUR OWN DOG WITHOUT THE HELP OF AN EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONAL!!!! (in this area at least.)
The issue of Liwanu's aggression leads me to a very serious matter. Guys (and Girls) it is NOT an intelligent idea to get a dog for 'protection' purposes. If you want to protect your house, storage or yard it is a much better idea to get an alarm system. Dogs who are not trained correctly are a huge liability risk and the intruder they are supposed to protect you against CAN and WILL sue you and many times they will win if your dog bites them (yes, even if they are in your bedroom with a gun to your head) and you lack the necessary notices. Many dogs who are gotten to serve as 'watch' dogs or 'protection' dogs end up dead, abandoned and tortured because they do not have the necessary drives to fill the role they are supposed to (according to the owner).
People, if you really need a dog for Personal or Home Protection, seek a trained dog from a professional. Make sure that you have the proper insurance, notices and be forewarned, there are insurance companies that discriminate not only by breed but by the dog's role in your life. NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ATTEMPT TO TRAIN YOUR OWN DOG WITHOUT THE HELP OF AN EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONAL!!!! (in this area at least.)
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