8/25/09

Ritualized Aggression

Ritualized aggression is part of 'pack' behavior (in this case pack means a group of animals). In reality it is a way for social animals to clear up conflict without weakening the family group. While I don't agree with pack theory or dominance theory, ritualized aggression is behavior seen in quite a few different types of animals that live in groups. Horses practice ritualized aggression, dogs, primates (including humans) and many other sociable animals. Ritualized aggression is a series of escalating threat displays that may or may not lead to physical contact although injury rarely results.

An example of ritualized aggression is a herd of horses which include a lead mare, a stallion and 5-10 mares. A bachelor stallion moving in to attempt theft or even a coup will be met by the herd stallion. They issue challenging vocalizations, square their bodies up and move towards each other with stiff, aggressive movements. When they are close to each other they will often shake their heads while pinning their ears back, kick, strike or try to nip each other. Very very rarely does this type of encounter lead to anything more than some scrapes and bruises (mostly from sliding on rocks) and a set of teeth marks.

Because of it's role in social heirarchy, I chose not to place it on the aggression list. Since ritualized aggression is not truly an issue for the health/wellbeing of humans interacting with the dog it doesn't actually effect us. In dog/dog aggression the best way to deal with it is to let the dogs sort themselves out. I don't mean that you should encourage the behavior, you most emphatically shouldn't, but you don't need to step in and correct your dog for non-harmful scuffles. If the situation begins to get out of hand and one or both dogs escalates into full-blown killing mode you and the other owner need to get involved. I'm sure many people reading this will take it in a way that I didn't mean it but I honestly feel that allowing dogs to be dogs is better for a healthy mindset.

I use two different methods when I am needed to halt or suspend a dog fight. One for when I'm alone and the other for when my kinda-boyfriend is around.

Method 1: This is the one I use when I am on foot, alone and the fight is either my dog and a stray (or a dog whose owner doesn't understand the leash law).

I tie my dog's leash to a post, bumper or other sturdy object. This keeps him from being able to follow the other dog when I get them split up. If only one dog is loose I have less to worry about. Grabbing the other dog by the loins (that squishy area right in front of the hip bones and behind the ribs) I yell !!OUT!! and pull back. My dog will release on the OUT command and the other dog will spin in an attempt to bite me. As the dog spins towards me I make a circle (think wheelbarrow cookies) to keep myself out of reach and the dog off balance. Once I am out of range of my own dog I begin watching for signs of the dog I'm holding to get tired or give up. Once the dog has stopped snapping at me or is snapping slower I shift my grip to tail and scruff so that I can push the dog over and get my phone. At this point I call the non-emergency number for the police or the number on the dog's collar.

Method 2: Same as above only my companion holds my dog.

I do NOT recommend you try either of these methods. I am willing to put myself at risk because I know I am capable of pulling the manuever off. It is much safer if you can break the fight up with a hose (cold shower) or a stick or some other ranged 'attack'. I am simply stating what I've found works best for me. You know your own dog and you also know your own abilities, find a way that works for you without you being hurt.

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