Showing posts with label dangerous. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dangerous. Show all posts

8/25/09

Ritualized Aggression

Ritualized aggression is part of 'pack' behavior (in this case pack means a group of animals). In reality it is a way for social animals to clear up conflict without weakening the family group. While I don't agree with pack theory or dominance theory, ritualized aggression is behavior seen in quite a few different types of animals that live in groups. Horses practice ritualized aggression, dogs, primates (including humans) and many other sociable animals. Ritualized aggression is a series of escalating threat displays that may or may not lead to physical contact although injury rarely results.

An example of ritualized aggression is a herd of horses which include a lead mare, a stallion and 5-10 mares. A bachelor stallion moving in to attempt theft or even a coup will be met by the herd stallion. They issue challenging vocalizations, square their bodies up and move towards each other with stiff, aggressive movements. When they are close to each other they will often shake their heads while pinning their ears back, kick, strike or try to nip each other. Very very rarely does this type of encounter lead to anything more than some scrapes and bruises (mostly from sliding on rocks) and a set of teeth marks.

Because of it's role in social heirarchy, I chose not to place it on the aggression list. Since ritualized aggression is not truly an issue for the health/wellbeing of humans interacting with the dog it doesn't actually effect us. In dog/dog aggression the best way to deal with it is to let the dogs sort themselves out. I don't mean that you should encourage the behavior, you most emphatically shouldn't, but you don't need to step in and correct your dog for non-harmful scuffles. If the situation begins to get out of hand and one or both dogs escalates into full-blown killing mode you and the other owner need to get involved. I'm sure many people reading this will take it in a way that I didn't mean it but I honestly feel that allowing dogs to be dogs is better for a healthy mindset.

I use two different methods when I am needed to halt or suspend a dog fight. One for when I'm alone and the other for when my kinda-boyfriend is around.

Method 1: This is the one I use when I am on foot, alone and the fight is either my dog and a stray (or a dog whose owner doesn't understand the leash law).

I tie my dog's leash to a post, bumper or other sturdy object. This keeps him from being able to follow the other dog when I get them split up. If only one dog is loose I have less to worry about. Grabbing the other dog by the loins (that squishy area right in front of the hip bones and behind the ribs) I yell !!OUT!! and pull back. My dog will release on the OUT command and the other dog will spin in an attempt to bite me. As the dog spins towards me I make a circle (think wheelbarrow cookies) to keep myself out of reach and the dog off balance. Once I am out of range of my own dog I begin watching for signs of the dog I'm holding to get tired or give up. Once the dog has stopped snapping at me or is snapping slower I shift my grip to tail and scruff so that I can push the dog over and get my phone. At this point I call the non-emergency number for the police or the number on the dog's collar.

Method 2: Same as above only my companion holds my dog.

I do NOT recommend you try either of these methods. I am willing to put myself at risk because I know I am capable of pulling the manuever off. It is much safer if you can break the fight up with a hose (cold shower) or a stick or some other ranged 'attack'. I am simply stating what I've found works best for me. You know your own dog and you also know your own abilities, find a way that works for you without you being hurt.

7/1/08

Ian Dunbar's Bite Assessment Scale

Level 1- Dog growls, lunges, snarls-no teeth touch skin. Mostly intimidation behavior.

Level 2- Teeth touch skin but no puncture. May have red mark/minor bruise from dog’s head or snout, may have minor scratches from paws/nails. Minor surface abrasions acceptable.

Level 3- Punctures ½ the length of a canine tooth, one to four holes, single bite. No tearing or slashes. Victim not shaken side to side. Bruising.

Level 4- One to four holes from a single bite, one hole deeper than ½ the length of a canine tooth, typically contact/punctures from more than canines only. Black bruising, tears and/or slashing wounds. Dog clamped down and shook or slashed victim.

Level 5- Multiple bites at Level 4 or above. A concerted, repeated attack.

Level 6- Any bite resulting in death of a human.

Cesar Milan has over simplified aggression for dogs. In his mind all dogs are aggressive from fear or dominance. He calls every dog that performs Level 2 or above a 'red-zone' case and overall makes it sound as if they were a lot worse than they actually are. As the above scale illustrates, there are several different levels of severity in aggression. Liwanu for instance; was at worst a 3+ which in the big picture isn't that bad. It's not good and it doesn't make him less of a danger but it doesn't mean he needs to be put down for being vicious. Levels 5 & 6 are the ones that most likely will need to be humanely euthanised because most owners are not capable of putting the time, energy and money into rehabilitating them. I really hate the term 'rehabilitation' because Cesar Milan has decided to use it as a catch phrase. Using R+ methods aggressive dogs can be healed and eventually can be integrated into a very average lifestyle. I would never consider an aggressive dog cured, it's more like being a recovering addict. Each day that the dog is able to maintain appropriate behavior is a success. There will be back-slides and gains, it's part of life for everything and everyone.


6/25/08

Owner Responsibility..PT 2

I promise I'll get off my podium regarding this subject after this post.

This is more geared towards those who own large breed (over 50 lbs) or dogs who are typically seen as 'vicious', 'dangerous' or overly strong breeds. More specifically, the owners of bully breeds, German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Hounds etc need to pay attention.

I firmly believe that we who choose to own these beautiful, working dogs have added responsibility. It is part of our duty to provide everything in the previous post AND go the extra mile to ensure our dogs project a positive image for their breed. Liwanu is a mix. I know what breeds he consists of because of physical attributes, temperament characteristics and behavior traits. Since I know what he is, I know how he looks it is my job to ensure that no one gets hurt by him. Behaviors that other dogs can get away with are unacceptable. A growling Chihuahua would make everyone laugh, a growling 90lb mutt isn't as humorous.

As hard as it is, we need to have higher standards for our dog's behavior. Anything that could hurt or scare another is unacceptable. It's not fair that our dogs have to go above and beyond but in order to fight the misconception the Media blatantly throws to the public it is on our shoulders to prove them wrong.

This doesn't mean you hurt or get rid of a chow mix who has some behavior issues...it simply means that you need to take time and money out of your shoe or restoration car project to put into a behaviorist or R+ trainer. Pick up a book and read. Do what you can and if all fails at least you tried.

6/19/08

Owner-Responsiblity

SURELY THESE DOGS DESERVE DEATH!

When they came for the pit bulls,
I remained silent;
Surely these dogs deserved death!

When they banned the rottweilers,
I remained silent;
Who needs these dogs?

When they came for the guardian breeds,
I did not speak out;
My dog was not one of these.

When they came for the large dogs,
I remained silent;
My dog was small.

When they came for all dogs,
there was no one left to fight with me.


There was a time when Americans stood united to protect our way of life as well as our property. Our society has deteriorated into a self-absorbed mess. No longer do we offer kindness to each other, no longer do we see the government as working for us. We blindly accept the decrees they make and are content with our rights being washed away in a tide of idiocy. We allow the media to brain-wash us into following the agendas of ARA (animal-rights activists) and other non-political organizations. I support animal welfare and animal rights, I do not support the mass extinction of a species based on it's body type.

Dogs cannot be held responsible for their actions (legally) because they are considered 'dumb' by law. The responsibility is completely on the owner. I have a 'dangerous' dog. He truly is dangerous because of his fear-aggression, unpredictable tendencies and the fact that he's 90lbs and knows how to use his weight. These things combine to make him a serious threat to the general public. I know that my dog can and will hurt someone if I am not constantly alert to the surroundings. I have set a protocol down for our daily routines and I always have a back up plan. Because I know this, I step up and go the extra mile to ensure his safety and the safety of others.

As dog owners it's OUR DUTY to keep our animals safe from other people while simultaneously keeping other people safe from our animals. BSL (breed-specific legislation) is BULLSHIT because it does nothing to address the true problem behind fatal and non-fatal dog attacks. No dog has ever or will ever attack a person for no reason. We may not be able to see the reason (most commonly we cannot because we are not directly involved) but there is one. Simple reasons for dog attacks are; fear, stress, being trapped, pain and illness. A few safety tips for EVERY dog owner out there are:

1) Know your dog. What were they bred for? How did they do their job? How much energy do they have (this dictates how much time/exercise they'll need)? How do they handle new situations/people? How are their obedience commands?
2) Train your dog. If there are any behavioral issues which can be potential signs of things to come (such as food-aggression, growling/lunging/charging at people, hackling etc) seek a professional who uses positive reinforcement or pick up a book from my recommended reading list. ALL dogs should know basic obedience commands and respond to them well. Training is very important regardless of breed/size or how cute the dog is.
3) Know your area. Know the dogs/people around your home, along your walking route and anywhere that you leave your dog for periods of time. You don't need to know a name or their life story, just familiarize yourself with the faces so you can recognize characters that are out of place. Know which areas have children so that you can protect them and your dog from bombardment or it's effects.
4) Never take for granted that your dog is harmless. EVERY dog can and will bite if it's pushed too far. Make a plan for emergency and keep your dog secured inside the house, inside a REAL fence or on leash at all times. Invisible fencing is only moderately effective at keeping dogs in an area and it doesn't keep anyone out. Chained dogs are more likely to be aggressive and hurt people/animals because of their frustrations.

TO BE CONTINUED...........